My Shade Garden in Late Summer

Last year I visited the Cleveland Botanical Gardens and took note of shade perennials that I was not familiar with.  When I came back to Wellesley, I purchased a few of these, and have been quite happy with them.  They have come into their own this year.  Coupled with a few other plants that I have had for years, I feel that my shade area can compete with other parts of the garden.

I already had liriope, two varieties of astilbe, Euroopean ginger, and hostas.  Hidden among all of these was a stokesia (Stokes' Aster), that I moved today.

I added a Yellow Waxbell Kirengashoma palmata.  This perennial gets to be a good size - mine is about 2 feet by 2 feet.  It has pale yellow-green foliage that is not acid; the flowers are a creamy yellow.  The foliage color and broad leaves, described as "maple-like", creates a nice effect in the border.  It is distinct enough from the surrounding plants that you really notice it - always helpful to "keep the eye moving", my mantra.

I also put in two windflowers (anemone), both of which appeared to have died over the winter.  As soon as it was warm enough in the spring, I bought another one Anemone 'September Charm'.   One of the plants from last year did indeed survive; it is not tall  yet, and not blooming.  Here is a picture of the one that is blooming.

I also bought a second Pink Turtlehead Chelone lyonii 'Hot lips'.  It isn't blooming yet.  The foliage is nice, regardless, and the plant has a good, neat shape.  When it blooms, the flowers are pink.  I will take a picture and post it when it does flower.

My liriope is blooming.  The purple flowers are far from spectacular, although they add interest to the plant.  Liriope is very popular in the Georgetown section of Washington, DC, mostly in foundation plantings.  I would love to move my liriope to my foundation beds, but it is very hard to divide, and even harder to move.  I would like to thin it out, though, perhaps in the Spring.

This post is going up a day late because I lost my phone and internet moments before I was going to publish.  Here are some pictures of the huge truck, and the telephone pole that came crashing down when he snagged the wires across the street.

Who says the suburbs aren't exciting?

I don't think the trucker had a very good night.

The Color Lavender in the Garden

In her magnificent book Colour in Your Garden (William Collins Sons and Co. Ltd., 1985), Penelope Hobhouse explains how color works, especially how colors interact with each other in the garden.  When I first studied this book (I must have read the chapter "The Nature of Colour" ten times before I understood it), the biggest practical takeaway I got was to put paler versions of a light color, such as yellow,  next to deeper versions of a dark color,  such as purple, next to each other.  Never, never, never should you put a deep yellow next to a pale purple.

Of course, I am not always totally logical, and my memory of what I have in specific spots can fade when I am eyeing a plant at the garden center.  Hence, the combination, shown below, of deep yellow black-eyed susan, next to anise hyssop.

This particular photo is off-balance.  However, the yellow flowers on the left will fade, and the sedum autumn joy to the right will bloom an almost burgundy red - creating a pleasing scheme.

Gestalt is important in design.  It is critical to look at the whole of a border, and not condemn based on a limited view.

In this picture, there are three distinct areas of lavender-grey.  The foreground is actually lavender.  The flowers are just starting to show.  When there are more flowers, this block of color will indeed be lavender.  In the middle ground I have Russian sage flopping over a mugo pine.  In the background is the anise  hyssop.  In this view, the interlude provided by the lavender colored plants gives the design balance, movement, and repetition.  It is thus relatively easy for your eye to figure out what is going on in the garden, and to keep your eye moving.

What Was She Thinking?

A part of my border I consider boring, and I have been fiddling with the area a lot this year.  Last summer I made several changes, including moving the medium height alchemilla (Lady's Mantle) to the back of the border because it spreads rapidly and looks awful after it has bloomed.  This year, I moved it back to the middle of the border because a delphinium in front of it survived the winter unexpectedly, grew tall, and bloomed spectacularly for weeks.  I took this success as a message from the gardening gods to move the Lady's Mantle.

I also got rid of an early-blooming, low-growing, spreading, messy-looking plant that may have been a veronica - I honestly am not sure what it is.  I moved three Knautia macedonica 'Thunder and Lightning' from the middle to the middle-front of the border.

You might think that my changes are a failure because the "before" pictures look pretty good.  I think that, given time, the new scheme will work out well.

Doesn't look too bad, but I was not happy.

Looks good - but I cheated with annuals and a good soaking.

Three weeks into the change - two dahlias are thriving, the soil is parched, the annuals aren't too happy, and I think I am going to like this arrangement.

On a different note, I have another picture of a hummingbird - this one is enjoying my Rose of Sharon.  And for those of you who were worried, my husband was able to affix the suction cups to my kitchen window, and the whole family has loved watching hummingbirds take advantage of the feeder.

 

Making Hummingbirds Happy

I love hummingbirds.  Who doesn't?  I had never seen one until a few years ago.  After that, I was hooked, and determined to provide hummingbirds a welcoming habitat.

There are two ways to attract hummingbirds.  The first is to get a hummingbird feeder.  I saw one at a friend's house that had suction cups that stick onto a window.  She said that you only need a day or two for the birds to find the feeder.

Most of what she said is true - but I had to enhance my environment to get the hummingbirds to notice my feeder.  I bought a few pots of colorful annuals, gazania, snapdragon, and vinca, and placed them near the feeder.  Then, I hung a fuschia  plant near the window.  In a few days, I had my first hummingbird visitor.

You have to be careful with feeders.  The sugar solution needs to be changed every three to four days.  It is easy to prepare - just add one cup of water to one quarter cup of sugar, and heat in a pot until the sugar is dissolved.  Once it has cooled, you can add it to your clean feeder.  Because you are using a sugar solution, you may also attract ants and insects.  Also, I am not having great luck with the suction cups.  The feeder was working just fine until I had to take it down when we had the house stained.  Since then, the cups keep slipping.  Somebody in my family will figure it out.

The purist's way to attract hummingbirds is to plant a garden with flowers and flowering shrubs that the hummingbird can feed from.  I have several of these in my garden.  My neighbor has several in his flower bed, and I have included a picture of his flowers.

His July garden is dominated by rudbeckia (commonly called black eyed susan), echinacea purpurea (purple coneflower), and the not-yet blooming coreopsis (I believe 'moonbeam"), also known as tickseed.

I have a different selection of flowers and shrubs in my border.  Althea (rose of sharon) is blooming profusely now, and the hummingbirds really like it.  They also use the branches to take a break from beating their wings.

There was a hummingbird feeding on the flowers' nectar, but unfortunately, I was not able to get a picture of it.  These shrubs come in lots of colors.  I would tend to stay away from the lavender ones; they tend to get a mauve tint that I don't find very attractive. 

The flower that I have had the most success with attracting hummingbirds is lobelia cardinalis.  The flowers are a beautiful, clear red, and you can easily see and photograph the birds because the plant is erect.

These plants like moist soil and they spread.  I don't mind the spread because they are good looking and distribute red throughout this particular bed.

Beauty in the Garden

Achieving beauty in the garden is often an elusive task.  You can follow the standard rules for achieving it by incorporating thoughtful use of line, pattern, balance, movement and repetition.  But the garden is an organic entity, influenced by weather, pests, disease,  patience, and soil conditions.

And what, exactly, is not beautiful?  Is it something that is ugly?  I think not.  Something that is monstrously ugly, such as a steel mill, is so overwhelmingly powerful and dominant in its landscape that I consider it an amped-up beautiful thing.

To me, lack of beauty is created when there is chaos, confusion, disorder and lack of interest.  That is why a weedy garden is often considered ugly - your eye and brain cannot tell what is going on, gets frustrated, and quits the scene.  Likewise, a design that is symmetrically balanced is often so boring that you want to weep.

My approach to achieving beauty in the garden is to have it be organized and balanced.  The balance includes making lights and darks equally important, and keeping the eye moving.

Despite the fact that I have thought long and hard about how to achieve beauty in the garden, I am not always successful.  I do not have a crew of people weeding and pruning for me.  I cannot make up for the bad winter we just had (my hydrangeas may not bloom, and my peonies were disappointing.)  It takes time, sometimes years, for a plant to hit its stride, as my European ginger did this year.  Patience and acceptance are a gardener's best friend.

And sometimes, plants surprise you.  I have a patch of Agastache 'blue fortune' (anise hyssop), that is blooming beautifully right now.  Growing right next to it is a lovely yellow lily.  I inadvertently achieved color balance because the large area of lavendar works well with its complement, the yellow of the lily.

 

Another happy surprise is this daylily, which I think I bought in Geauga County, Ohio at an Amish run daylily nursery.

I think it is lovely.

A Visit to Prairie Country

Our recent vacation included visiting Minnesota and North Dakota.  People who have never been to that part of the country might be surprised by the differences in plant species and general environment. 

For instance, Fargo, North Dakota, is much further north than Boston.  Fargo's latitude is 46.8772 degrees north, while Boston's is 42.3581 degrees north.  The most remarkable impact created by this difference in the summer is the day length.  It does not get dark in Fargo until ten o'clock at night.  I felt like a little kid going to bed before it was dark out (clearly I am not a party animal).

Despite how far north it is, Fargo can get really hot, and hot early in the year.  I have been told that Fargo experiences "continental weather".  In other words, there are no large bodies of water or mountain ranges nearby to moderate the atmosphere.

As you probably already know, Fargo gets really cold in the winter.  Weeks of negative 40 degree Fahrenheit temperatures were not uncommon this past winter.

This last point leads to an ecological system that is quite different from the one found in Boston.   For instance, I have never seen a rhododendron or azalea in either North Dakota or Minneapolis.  I could be wrong, but I do not think they can survive the brutal winters.

More importantly, tall grass prairie used to dominate the landscape.  Most of the prairie is gone - plowed under or paved over, starting with the arrival of Europeans.

Heroic efforts are being made to restore tall grass prairies.  I am most familiar with the robust program at Carleton College in Northfield, Minnesota (cows, colleges and contentment).  The Cowling Arboretum,  started in the 1920's, is an 880 acre parcel of land on the campus where the natural habitat is slowly being restored.  My husband went on a tour of the "arb" when our daughter was a student there, and was told that the space is slowly being planted with native prairie grasses.  The only catch, and it is a big one, is that it is very difficult to find native plants.  Someone came up with the idea of locating seeds along train tracks because this land has not been paved or plowed.   The idea is working, slowly.

You many have heard about the strange weather in the Midwest this summer.  There has been lots of rain, and Minnesota was hit particularly hard.  We visited Minnehaha state park outside of Minneapolis, to see the falls and the trails.

The water was rushing frantically on its way to the Mississippi River, no doubt fueled by all of the rain.  Walking along the river, we were lucky to see several snowy egrets (we saw them on the drive from Fargo to Minneapolis as well, in marshy areas.)

Driving around Minneapolis, I was impressed by how many areas were flooded, days after the rains had departed.

Now the Midwest is experiencing colder than average temperatures.  It has been a strange summer.

A rant, then happy talk

First, the rant.  The new way to mow your lawn, or rather have somebody else mow your lawn, is to use a huge lawnmower, or more appropriately, a mowing machine, a behemoth.  The person doing the cutting stands on a platform behind the  mower.  Grass can be cut very quickly.  Therefore, the lawn service can make more money by cutting many more lawns in a day than with traditional mowers.

I do not begrudge anybody the right or ability to make money.  What I don't like, is what these machines do to the lawn.

Because the mower has a much wider wheel base than the old-fashioned kind, there is very little "give" when the lawn is not perfectly flat.  If the wheels are resting on a low point, and the earth crowns between the wheels, the lawn is shaved instead of cut.  This problem is exacerbated because the lawn services seem to like to mow the lawn really short.  Normally, I wouldn't mind what people do to their own lawns.  However, I have new neighbors who have not moved in yet, and their lawn service decided to mow part of my lawn because they did not know where the property line was.  Not only did they shave my grass, they also might a tight turn on my grass, damaging it even more.  AAArgh!

Now to happy stuff.  My garden continues to go through its seasonal show.  My daylilies Stella D'oro are blooming along with lysimachia 'Firecracker' Loosestrife.  I did not anticipate so much yellow in one spot, but I like it.  The bronze foliage of the loosestrife breaks up all the yellow.

My asclepias tuberosa has really hit its stride.  I am glad it is peaking before I leave on vacation.

To the right of the asclepias tuberosa is sedum 'Autumn Joy' and annual lobelia.  The only change I would make to this area (besides fixing the grass) is to have a more prominent blue flower in the vicinity to balance the brilliant orange.

My ancient rhododendron is starting to bloom now.  The bees are captivating to watch as they gather pollen from the flowers.

The flowers start pink and fade to white as they open up.

Finally, my "miracle" amaryllis is finished looking pretty, so off to the border it will go.

I will be on vacation for a week, so please catch up with the Honest Gardener in mid July.  Happy and safe Fourth of July everyone.